“If I Were Not Upon The Sea”

There are many traditions that have evolved over the years on board cruise ships, some good, some bad, some indifferent.  “If I Were Not Upon The Sea” is a spoofy skit [or read goofy if you prefer], drug out over the years by cruise directors and their staff and involves a lot of pawing, double entendre and generally burlesque humor.  And, maybe unfortunately, it still makes occasional appearances on board.  One night you may be entertained by a show that cost $1.6 million to produce (that is the figure given by the cruise director for Princess’ “British Invasion” which to date has only been used on one ship with a mostly British audience).  The next night, in these days of cutting budgets wherever possible, the evening show might be a crew variety show with a highlight being the cruise staff’s production of “If I Were Not Upon The Sea.”  Knock offs of old TV game shows featuring passenger participation are also a low-cost favorite.  Ironic: one night a $1.6 million show and the next night a knock-off of “To Tell The Truth.”

When I started on cruise ships, in the late 60′s, it was a different world.  Holland America had a Dutch crew.  My table for two (the Roman Catholic priest and I) had a waiter and bus boy who ONLY served our table, plus a wine steward and bar steward standing by. Entertainment, such as it was, usually included an aging dance duo, a dance band, and a soloist.  A few spotlights, no stage, no production crew, simple, and frankly rather boring.  There were movies in a genuine theater, all of which was followed by a sumptuous and lavishly presented midnight buffet.  There was no casino.  The purser organized bingo games and tracked the money to insure that all the money paid in was returned to the winning passengers.   The cruise director would tell you what to do in the ports and where to shop, and when in port you’d see the cruise director visiting all the stores and attractions to collect his money.  Cruise directors in those days lived large and they all had nice villas somewhere.  Cruising was expensive but it WAS an all-inclusive vacation.

Volendam Mar 08 004Well life has changed!  I was on Holland America when they announced they were scuttling the Dutch crew.  My wife was on Cunard when they announced they were terminating the British crew.  Today’s crews, although wonderful and without attitude, are mostly from Indonesia, the Philippines, and Eastern Europe.  On most ships today a waiter and assistant waiter take care of three  to five tables, including getting bar drinks and being the expert on wine.  There may be one sommelier on the entire ship!    And all he revenue from the ports and the shops and the Bingo goes to the cruise line.  I remember when Carnival started up and all the other cruise lines looked down their noses at Carnival.  Royal Caribbean introduced 6 slot machines, tucked away in the dark corner of an upper deck, for gamblers (presumably and other degenerates) who simply had to gamble no matter what.  Now the casino is the most prominent location on most ships.

“All-inclusive”: you’ve GOT to be kidding!  Expect to pay extra for everything.  You want the “good” food: pay for it.  Forget about the Midnight Buffet [which was an extravagant waste anyway].  Food is all portion controlled which not only cuts cost but is better for the environment as well as the health of passengers.  Entertainment has changed as well.  Cruise lines will do almost anything to be “different”, so much so that “different” on cruise ships now consists of being the same as everyone else.  Cruise lines are like lemmings.  One line introduces something, then everyone follows suit.

One of the early concerns about cruise marketing was something called “commoditization.”  [Defined by Wikipedia as: "the process by which goods that have economic value and are distinguishable in terms of attributes (uniqueness or brand) end up becoming simple commodities in the eyes of the market or consumers."]  The fear was that eventually cruise lines would compete solely on price and cruising would become a commodity .  There would be nothing unique about the experience or about a particular cruise line.  So everyone has big-screen, outdoor movies, circus acts, and $1.6 Million shows.  Cruising has become Vegas at sea and people love it!  Cruising is big business and is making big bucks.  Don’t let the price competition fool you: that’s commoditalization.  Royal, regal, majestic, princely . . . think of any of the royal terms you can imagine.  Let the marketing departments go wild with promises, but the bottom line . . . What determines what you get – as usual – is the price.

When I started cruise ships had a Catholic priest, a Rabbi, and a Protestant Chaplain who was sometimes me.  Eventually they dropped the Rabbi, except on High Holy Days, and now most cruises don’t even have a Rabbi then.  The Protestant Chaplain was the next to go, except on Easter and Christmas, and now many cruises just have the cruise staff fill in and read some kind of generic service designed to create warm feelings.  Last to go, the Catholic priest.  Every accommodation that can be sold is sold.  And most people don’t care since they are on vacation and if you’re getting away you might as well get away from church as well.

The other thing we used to worry about when I had cruise only travel agencies was something I called “peeling the onion.”   Twenty years ago we’d watch as cruise lines eliminated one thing, then another, all to cut costs.  My concern was that if you remove enough layers from the onion, pretty soon there is nothing left!  But the cruise industry has, successfully I might add, been peeling the onion for twenty years and continues to do so cutting back here, there and everywhere, hoping that customers either don’t notice or don’t care.  And since the customers keep coming back . . .  Anything that does not create onboard revenue is, or will soon be, history.   Theaters don’t create revenue, so you either watch a movie while swimming or on your stateroom TV, but don’t worry about missing anything because these are the same movies you’ve been seeing for  years.  The shows are there to entertain you, but also to give you the opportunity to buy drinks.  But that too may be changing.  Norwegian Cruise Line has introduced a “Dinner & Show” extra where, by combining two previously free items, they can charge $25-35!

Set in the 217-seat, two-floor Spiegel Tent, Cirque Dreams is a theater-in-the-round show with a surreal mix of motor-mouth monologues, singing, acrobatics, audience participation and food. Reviews have been mixed; those who like it really like it, and those who don’t have a viscerally negative reaction.

Everything is for sale!  On board shopping malls with the same “special discount” sales every cruise.  Teeth whitening, acupuncture, Botox, dozens of spa “treatments” making promises that would never pass FDA muster.  Cruise lines used to pride themselves in their onboard collection of art: now it’s all art for sale.  Pictures, videos, coffee cards, soda cards, good brewed coffee, ice cream, quality food, tours of the ship, special luggage  handling, Internet, special suck up treatment from the staff . . . you name it and it’s for sale. And it’s probably only a matter of time before plastic surgery is offered as well! “Oh, after your world cruise Janet you look so much younger!”

Cruise Critic, an online forum popular with frequent cruisers and where I occasionally contribute on the “Panama Canal” board, has a fascinating article Nickel and Dimed? 22 Cruise Ship ‘Added Fees’ Compared  that’s well-worth reading.  It’s not just one cruise line, but across the board everyone is scheming and dreaming up ways to make more on board revenue.  Cruise Critic readers were allowed to vote and hands down the most obnoxious extra was . . . drum roll! . . . Royal Caribbean for charging an extra $15 – $37.50 + 15% gratuity for the items they know guests love to eat and have always been staple menu items in the main dining room.   Nothing special here . . .  other than the added charge.

On several of its ships, Royal Caribbean’s main dining room menus encourage passengers to celebrate their cravings with a $15 filet or $37.50 surf ‘n’ turf. Since cruise-time immemorial, these options were fee-free on at least one night in the MDR. The freebies are still there in some capacity, but they’re shrinking in size and, many say, quality. But what might be more frightening than the food is the confusing 15 percent gratuity Royal levies. The food is certainly unique; the service and venue are not. There is no special presentation of the lobster, no dancing crustacean or opera-singing claw.

You gotta admit, these guys have balls!

Now I have a vested interest in this.  Years ago, when it was relatively cheap, I bought Carnival stock, Princess stock [now UK Carnival stock], and Royal Caribbean.  The stocks have done well and I’ve made money.  I know people like to grouse, complain and winge about all the extra charges on board, but the fact is that it is the onboard revenue that makes the difference between profit and loss.  And the cruise line makes a whole lot less than you might expect.

Consider this breakdown from WORLD CRUISE INDUSTRY REVIEW:

Cruise Passenger Spending

I’m sure most cruise passengers assume that the cruise line is making a whole lot more than 10.7% before taxes [and taxes are another whole issue]!

The mantra for working on board a ship as well as in the cruise industry is “Things Change”!  And they do.  Face it: most people could NOT afford to have taken those cruises back in the late 60′s.  Today most people can afford to cruise and cruising is one of the most cost-effective ways to vacation and see the world.

About these ads

Isn’t it time?

Some of you have been reading this blog for months, pondering, wondering . . .  maybe you have been dreaming about your ESCAPE TO PARADISE . . . Isn’t it time that you actually visited Panama and discovered what Panama is all about?

Taking a Panama Canal transit cruise, where  you just barrel through the Canal, ocean to ocean, is nice, but do you really get to SEE and experience Panama?   If you are thinking about taking a Canal Cruise take one, like Princess’ “2-day Panama” itinerary, that gives you a complete Panama Canal transit AND a whole day in Panama to explore and actually see some of Panama.

If you are looking to escape and retire abroad, take a look at the Panama Relocation Tours run by my friend Jackie Lange.  These are not time-share-type tours run by outfits in partnership with developers where everyone is trying to sell you on one or two developments.  These tours aren’t designed to sell you anything, but give you an overview of Panama and a chance to meet with expats who are actually living here.  You can pick their brains and see if Panama is a possibility.   If you’ve read my book, ESCAPE TO PARADISE: LIVING & RETIRING IN PANAMA, you know that even after you’ve taken the tour, you still have a lot of work and research to do before making the move.

But isn’t it time to actually check out Panama?  Time is passing by.  If not now, when?

“Exotic Panama, that sunny nation in Central America, gateway between the Pacific and Atlantic oceans . . . has almost everything: year-round sun, first-world amenities, bird-filled rainforests, a dollar economy and easy flights from the U.S.  Panama City is considered safest of all Central American cities, with worldly buzz because of the Canal, and a World Heritage Site.”  FORBES

“Panama is one of the richest ecosystems on the planet.  ‘It is a Mecca for tropical research,’ says Hector Guzman, a scientist stationed here with the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute at Naos Marine Laboratory.  ‘All the theories of tropical evolution originate here.’  For tourists, this means more birds than Costa Rica, more sharks, more whales, more coral reefs.”  NEW YORK TIMES

“Unlike Costa Rica, Panama h as not yet become a price-inflated eco-circus with billboards targeting tourists.”  BOSTON GLOBE

A Snake Story

Speaking of poisonous snakes and the fer de lance  . . . I know I should NOT tell you this story, but I just can’t resist!  My theory in writing ESCAPE TO PARADISE: LIVING & RETIRING IN PANAMA was to tell it like it is.  Better that you should read the book and know what really to expect and either decide to pursue escaping to Panama further, or know upfront “It’s not for me” than to sell everything, spend a fortune moving to Panama and investing here, only to decide you don’t like it.  So if you just want smoke blown in your eyes, there are lots of outfits and online publications and “experts” that will do that, even some for free, but I’d rather give you the straight scoop and let you decide.

Anyway, for better or worse, here’s the snake story . . .

When I talk about Panama on ships going through the Panama Canal and take questions, someone always asks about snakes. And, yes, we do have a lot of snakes, 127 varieties to be exact. But, not to worry, only twenty are poisonous. However, those twenty include some of the most venomous snakes in the world, including the fer de lance. Most of the really dangerous snakes stay away from populated areas, except, unfortunately, the fer de lance. The fer de lance can outrun a horse on an open beach and is an aggressive snake, known to even lie in wait in an area frequented by warm-blooded animals.

When people ask about snakes I always tell them that you will be very lucky to even see a snake in Panama and your chances of getting bitten by a poisonous snake are less than your chances of getting struck by lightning. In most of Panama you are within 45 minutes of a government hospital that has antivenom so your chances of actually dying are nil.

After one talk a lady from Milwaukee came up to me and said, “Richard, I was bitten by fer de lance in Panama and lived to tell about it.” I was dumbfounded!

“Really! How?”

You didn’t hear this from me, but, the lady from Milwaukee took a rain forest walk that all the cruises offer as an excursion if they are actually stopping in Panama. She was at the end of the line of guests when they stopped to hear the guide explain a particular plant. She felt something snap at her ankle, looked down, and didn’t see anything but two tiny marks, which she assumed might have been insect bites. She mentioned it to the guide who told her she probably had just stepped on a twig.

By the time she got back to the ship her ankle was feeling sore and a little discolored so she went to the medical center. The ship doctor told her she probably had stepped on a twig, gave her some aspirin and charged her account for an office visit. By the next morning she was feeling worse and went back to the doctor, who charged her for another visit, gave her some more aspirin and told her she would feel better the next day. That evening, feeling worse and with the discoloration spreading, she went back to the ship’s doctor for yet another office call. By this time she says, “He was looking at me like I was some kind of hypochondriac, gave me some more aspirin and said I’d feel better in the morning.”

By the next morning her leg was discolored, the discoloration was spreading to her arms, and she had blood in her urine. She went back to the ship doctor, insistent that something was wrong and she was not leaving until he took notice. Finally, they did some blood tests (which they should have done in the first place), video conferenced with their medical people in the US and with the Centers For Disease Control and it was determined that she had been bitten by a fer de lance. At this point the ship diverted to a port where they had a medical jet standing by to evacuate the lady to Miami where she was in the hospital for two months recovering.

Wow! The woman was young, athletic in good physical shape, in her 30s, all of which contributed to her successful recovery. So it is possible to get struck by lightning, get bitten by a fer de lance, or even win the lottery! All very unlikely, but possible.

Sorry! It’s still a great tour if you’ve never had opportunity to walk through a rain forest! I know some of you would love to see any snake in the wild, but that is very unlikely. Even herpetologists who visit Panama looking for snakes have a hard time finding them!

As I mentioned the other day, we have a farm and we’ve found a few, not many, but a few. The babies generally in the rainy season. However a mama fer de lance can have up to 80 babies, so we’ve found two . . . and it’s the maybe 78 snake brothers and sisters that I watch out for. A few years ago the guys were working up along the fence line, next to a neighboring finca that doesn’t spray or anything and they found and killed this sucker that probably came over for a visit from the farm next door. That’s Oscar who helps me with plumbing holding the snake.

But again . . . not to worry. You can find rattlesnakes in Beverly Hills. So you just watch where you walk. That way you don’t step in any little “gifts” left by my dogs or on a fer de lance.

Panama Canal Expansion

The Panama Canal Authority has officially announced what most people expected, and that is that the Panama Canal Expansion project is now 6 months behind schedule.  It was hoped that the amplification of the Canal would be completed in time for the 100th Anniversary of the Canal in 2014. The target is now mid 2015, but never-the-less amazing progress is being made.  This is a really good video about the expansion project and a good progress report with some fantastic areal shots of the work.  Notice all of the countries and companies that are involved in this amazing undertaking.

And if you haven’t cruised the Panama Canal, what are you waiting for?  If you have cruised or are planning to cruise be sure and get a copy of my book CRUISING THE PANAMA CANAL: CENTENNIAL EDITION.  It will tell you what you need to know, what to expect, what to look for, how to get the most out of your voyage, and give you information about the shore excursions in Panama.

Canal News

It’s Official: The Panama Canal Expansion is 6 Months Behind

Panama Canal Authority officials have announced on national television that the Canal expansion project, which is expected to result in lower shipping costs and emissions as well as greater capacity and efficiency, has fallen six months behind schedule. The $5.25 billion dollar expansion project will result in an increased beam constraint from 32.2 meters to 49 meters enabling larger ships to transport more goods in fewer trips. According to a study in the International Journal of Maritime Engineering and referenced in the Nature News Blog, the potential savings in both fuel and reduced emissions may be as great as 16% per tonne-mile.

Delays – On April 4 2012 it was reported by the Journal of Commerce that the consortium responsible for building the new locks, Grupo Unidos por el Canal (GUPC), submitted a letter to the Panama Canal Authority with a new work schedule indicating an expected completion date six months behind the original target date of October 2014 – 100 years after the canal was first completed. According to Alberto Aleman Zubieta, the Panama Canal Authority’s Chief Executive Officer, “the company is trying to catch up with lost time.”

In December of 2011, the project was reported to be “at least one year behind schedule” and in March 2012, Zubieta said the project was “delayed at least seven months,” and that GUPC was accelerating the work in an attempt to make the original deadline. According to the contract, a penalty of $300,000 per day will be applied if GUPC cannot complete the locks on time.

In an early June statement by the Panama Canal Authority, officials reported that the first monolith for the new locks was completed, marking an important milestone. The delay to April 2015 is a result of GUPC’s difficulty in meeting its contractual agreements for the standards of the concrete mix for the locks, which delayed the laying of the concrete from January to July of 2011. (shipandbunker.com)

Big deal. This is a huge project and delays in gigantic projects can be expected, but the work continues.  If anything it gives US ports another 6 months to finish expansion of port facilities to handle the new larger ships that will be coming through the Panama Canal.  The fact that the original US construction of the Canal finished AHEAD of schedule and under budget . . . well, you can’t expect miracles to be repeated.

Panama is on an economic roll.  While other countries are seeing the ratings of their bonds dropped, Panama is seeing bond ratings improve.  Standard and Poors (S & P) has once again raised Panama’s rating, this time from BBB- to BBB because of economic growth and a stable outlook for Panama. For these improvements the rating “reflects that the Government has been able to implement an ambitious public investment in infrastructure over 60% of GDP in 2011, including the expansion of the Panama Canal, in the coming years without increasing tax debt load.”

Meanwhile, Nicaragua has resurrected, yet again, plans for a competing canal.

So, what else is new?  Nicaragua still doesn’t have the money or financing, but anyway . . . this from Don Winner’s Panama-Guide . . .

Lawmakers in Nicaragua have approved a law aimed at creating an alternative to the Panama Canal. President Daniel Ortega says the $30 billion dollar project would lift the country out of poverty. “We can make this dream a reality,” said Edwin Castro, legislative leader of the majority Sandinista party. “I don’t know if they will find the funding for this canal, but it is hopeful,” said opposition legislator Wilfredo Navarro.

The initiative, approved by 85 of 91 lawmakers, establishes a legal system for the proposed 200 kilometer (124 mile) long canal that would link the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Plans to build a canal across Nicaragua date back centuries, but were overtaken by the construction of the Panama Canal which opened in 1914. In recent years successive Nicaraguan governments have revived the concept as a way to promote development in the second poorest country in the Americas.

Feasibility studies are expected to cost $350 million dollars, while the actual construction of the new canal could hit $30 billion dollars. The government is proposing to raise the funds through a public/private partnership, with the state maintaining a 51% stake.

Project leader Eden Pastora said Nicaragua’s canal, to be built along one of six proposed routes, would be larger and deeper than the Panama Canal. That vital waterway is currently undergoing a major $5.25 billion project to expand capacity. The upgrade, set to be completed in 2014, will allow some of the world’s largest ships to pass through. The Panama Canal generated a record $1 billion for the government during fiscal year 2010-2011 and a total of $6.6 billion since the United States handed over control more than a decade ago.

Winner’s Comment: First of all, Nicaragua is broke. They don’t have either the money or the capacity to borrow money to build this $30 billion dollar project. Secondly, they want to keep a 51% stake. So what they are saying to potential investors is – come here, spend $30 billion dollars to build us a new canal in Nicaragua, and for your money you will get 49% of what you spent. This project is more than just a little risky for any potential investor. First of all, you’re dealing with the government of Daniel Ortega and a bunch of left wing socialists. Secondly, the canal once finished would be more than twice as long as the Panama Canal, and any ships wanting to use it would have a choice – do we use the Panama Canal or the Nicaraguan canal. Panama would be in a very strong position to compete because by the time the proposed Nicaraguan canal opens (in ten years or more) the newly expanded Panama Canal would be open and operating. If there was a competing canal, Panama could simply drop their toll rates down to a point where every ship would first choose Panama, and then only use Nicaragua if there were no spots left in Panama. In short, the Panama Canal is already bought and paid for and there would be no need or pressure to have to charge enough money to pay for new construction – only to operate and maintain. Anyway, whatever. This plan is most likely nothing more than a Nicaraguan pipe dream. Smart guys with big calculators and a lot of money won’t take the risk – because it’s a loser on the math.

Panama Canal Expansion: “One of the milestones in the engineering of this century”

There are several things which interest me about this article, which has appeared on a number of Web sites including Don Winner’s Panama-Guide, about the expansion of the Panama Canal. First, although a Panamanian project, like the original creation of the US Canal, it really is an international project involving companies and people from around the world. Second, I think that many people fail to comprehend the enormity of this project and what it represents not just for the future of Panama but for worldwide transportation of goods. US ports with an eye to the future have been hard at work expanding to accommodate the larger vessels transiting the Canal and those that haven’t will lose out big time.

The expansion of the Panama Canal, whose work involved the Spanish company Sacyr Vallehermoso and Panama’s Constructora Urbana, allow the transit of vessels with three times the amount of cargo currently ply the known channel from October 2014.
The expansion of the Panama Canal, a project involving the Spanish company Sacyr Vallehermoso and the Panamanian company Constructora Urbana, will allow for the transit of vessels carrying three times the amount of cargo, compared to those currently using the existing Panama Canal, starting in October 2014. “I think it will be one of the engineering milestones of this century,” said the Spanish engineer Ametller Sergi in Venice (northeastern Italy), who is the Electro-mechanical manager of the project, part of the consortium building the project – the Grupo Unidos por el Canal (GUPC) – which also includes the Italian company Impregilo and Belgium’s Jan de Nul, responsible for building a third branch to join the two existing ones.

To achieve this they are using $3.2 billion dollars to build two new channel outputs, one in the Atlantic and one in the Pacific, through which will pass ships carrying 12,600 containers and of 366 meters in length, an increase from the current maximum of 4,400 containers and 294 meters in length of the ships that pass through the Panama Canal today.

Each of the exits to the ocean will consist of three water chambers closed with locks that will raise them the 27 meters between the two oceans and Lake Gatun – situated in the middle of the canal – and following the operation of such systems, boats advance to equilibrate the water level between adjacent chambers.

According to project leaders, the expansion will allow a ship to pass through the new locks on each side of the canal in about two hours, and to complete its passage through the Panama Canal in an average of 10 hours.

The difficulty of extending the canal lies in the dimensions of the work, which will have 158 valves and 16 gates, each weighing a total of 50,000 tons, which today are being built in factories that the Italian company Cimolai has close to Venice.

“The gates are the most technically complex part of the project,” said Ametller, who explained that, while those already installed in the channel are hinged, the new gates are on rollers and they have a height equivalent to a 20-story building, and that a good portion of their interior is empty so they can be dragged to close and open the lock.

As explained by the Spanish engineer, the gates operate in a dual system to ensure that in case of breakdown, the branch continues to operate and there are different sizes depending on the ocean side where they are located.

“The biggest ones will be on the Pacific side where there is the most seismic hazard, and because the tides are higher,” noted the manager, who said they are being built with “100% European steel” from Italy, the Czech Republic, Macedonia, Germany and Poland, and they will be moved by boat to Panama – “in fours” – during 2013 for testing in early 2014 and to have completed the project on October 21, 2014.

The largest of these gates are 33 meters high and weigh 4,300 tons, and the installation of these structures will begin on the Atlantic side once they have built the concrete base on which they will be placed through a mechanism calculated down to the millimeter by the engineers who designed the enlargement.

A system side pools allows for the reuse of 60% of the water in each compartment, so as to reduce the total consumption by 7%, and the operation of the facility will be reviewed from a number of control points.

The passage of water from the lake to the compartments and between the pools shall be regulated through the use of 158 valves built by the Hyundai car company in Korea.

The consortium estimates that a large freighter passing through the Canal will use about 200 million liters of water, but that the ship be “more efficient” and “in smaller numbers” and on the other hand will have less of an impact than a larger number of smaller vessels, according to the environmental manager, Panamanian Luis Villarreal.

GUPC should guarantee 99.6% availability for navigation, or they could be penalized and they even might have to take over the maintenance of enlargement during the first two years following the completion of the project.

But officials of the consortium are optimistic because the project is “under constant audit” and “tests”, and so far 15% of the work on the gates has been completed, so that the timetables fall in line with the deadlines, concluded Ametller. (Panama America)

Don Winner Comment: Designed by a Spanish engineer. Valves built by Hyundai. And a Panamanian environmentalist. What could go wrong?